![]() The reason I don't just use the piece full sized is it is really heavy. That will still leave me some track so I could always make another one and make it anvil shaped. I'm leaning towards cutting off a foot or so of one of the pieces of track I have, cleaning it up and not putting a horn or heel on it. I would like to have the option to have somthing to beat against if I need to heat and beat somthing in to a different shape. With small stock, you don't have a lot of time to work it before it cools down, so being able to go from the vise to the anvil without having to move is really convenient and saves me from needing an additional heat. If you twist stock, it generally bends, too. When I'm making punches and chisels, hardware, that sorta thing, it's really handy. I actually have a 3-1/2" swivel base vise that I added a shank to so I can use that on the anvil. The Hardie hole is something that I use a LOT. It would be a good idea to add some gussets to support the anvil face and add some mass to it.Įdit: meant to add that I use the horn quite a bit. ![]() I'd remove some of the web from under both the heel and the horn, I'd add bolt holes in the bottom flange to mount it to a big hardwood base (stump). If I were to make an anvil, I would add a 1" Hardie hole and a long horn. My work is a mix of repair, fab, and forging. Like general knife discussion? /r/knives is the place for you.I've never used a track anvil. If you use water or brine, expect broken blades!įor more general blacksmithing, check out our friends at /r/blacksmithĬheck out /r/ChefKnives for all things regarding culinary cutleryĪ place where both metal bangers and grinder monkeys are welcome /r/knifemaking Grocery store canola oil can work well -if you use clean preheated oilīrine and water are cheap for "water hardening" steels W, but use fast oils Parks 50 & Houghton Quench K Here is a good post by Kevin Cashen with the Explanation and classification of oil speedsįor heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find a Eutectoid steel 1080, 1084. Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabsįorget the Goddard's Goop Quench, Motor Oil, Transmission Fluid Or air quenched A2, ATS34, Elmax, CPM154, 154CM, 440C etc. Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steels Right click and save this and watch it oftenĪ2, ATS34, Elmax, CPM154, 154CM, 440C etc. Heat Treating Basics Video (downloadable) His telephone service is better than his website. For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use known good steel.ġ084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat. Files, railroad spikes, lawnmower blades and other unknown steels can definitely be used for practice forging but will not perform for a knife. The “welding steel” at Tractor Supply/ Lowes/ Home Depot is mild steel and useless for knivesīuy new, known, annealed blade steel. Knife Shop Safety and PPE by Jim Ferguson (Downloadable, Right Click, Save As)Ībsolute Cheapskate Way To Start Making Knives (Downloadable PDF) Heat Treating Tool Box- Kevin Cashen's detailed guide to heat treating ![]() User Submitted Content: Kiln Build by meepstah Large and in Depth List of Wood for Handles Dirt Cheap Guide to Knife Forging LINKS TO BLOGS AND WEBSITES ARE CONSIDERED SELF-PROMOTION.ĥ) Posts that address questions easily searched or answered in the WIKI will be removed. You are welcome to make transactions private, but please don't post your website or prices. ![]() This place is welcome to everyone, from master artisans, to beginners, to people that just like knives and learning and sharing their knowledgeġ) Post anything related to bladesmithing.Ģ) All official AMAs must be Mod approved with verification.ģ) Keep comments respectful and on topic.Ĥ) Blatant self promotion and for sale posts are not allowed. Welcome to Bladesmith! The art and craft of forged blades.
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